Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe Review

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Five Ten NIAD VCS Review

The Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe, renowned for its exceptional performance and precision on diverse terrains and confirmed by the overwhelmingly positive Five Ten NIAD VCS Review, is a versatile and high-performing option that guarantees comfort, support, and durability, making it an excellent choice for climbers of all levels seeking reliable performance and precision.

Fit and Comfort9
Heel and Toe Hooking8
Indoor Performance9
Outdoor Performance9

Our Verdict

The Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe is an excellent choice for intermediate climbers who want a versatile shoe that performs well in both sport climbing and bouldering.

The medium-stiff profile and neutral last make it suitable for a wide range of climbing styles, while the sticky Stealth C4 rubber provides great friction on most surfaces. Its exceptional edging ability and technical toe patch are a plus for gym climbers and boulderers alike. Additionally, the new heel design ensures good fit and support, making it comfortable to wear even during long sessions at the crag.

For intermediate climbers looking for a high-performing yet affordable option, we strongly recommend the Five Ten NIAD VCS rock climbing shoe as an exceptional choice that delivers quality at an accessible price point.

  • Versatile for sport climbing and bouldering
  • Medium-stiff profile and neutral last for various foot shapes
  • Stealth C4 rubber sole for traction and durability
  • Breathable upper keeps feet dry
  • Redesigned heel for improved support and control
  • Enhanced tension transfer for better edging ability
  • Comfortable fit with good support
  • Durable construction withstands intense climbing
  • Good value for the price
  • Sizing may run small, consider half size up
  • Some durability issues reported
  • Not recommended for advanced crack climbing
  • Roomy toe box for some
  • Minimal stretch in synthetic upper

Overview Of Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe

Five Ten NIAD VCS Review - Overview Of Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe

The Five Ten NIAD VCS rock climbing shoe boasts a durable construction, breathable upper, and sticky rubber sole perfect for a variety of terrains.

Design And Features

The Five Ten NIAD VCS showcases an impressive design built to enhance your climbing experience. This next-generation upgrade of the popular Anasazi VCS boasts a medium-stiff profile and neutral last, making it ideal for both sport climbing and bouldering.

Built for performance, the NIAD VCS features Stealth C4 rubber soles that strike a perfect balance between friction and durability. Another excellent feature is the superior breathability to keep your feet cool, dry and comfortable during those long days spent on rocks or steep climbs.

Sticky Rubber Sole

One of the premium features of the Five Ten NIAD VCS is its sticky sole, made from Stealth C4 rubber. This innovative material strikes an impressive balance between friction and durability, providing climbers with a secure grip on various surfaces without wearing down quickly.

Many climbers have noted how it outperforms rival products when it comes to smearing or slab climbing – giving them that extra confidence boost they need during those adrenaline-pumping moments.

Breathable Upper

The Five Ten NIAD VCS features a breathable upper that can keep your feet cool and dry even during long climbs. The synthetic upper material stretches to fit your feet and has moisture-wicking properties, making it suitable for climbers with different foot shapes.

Moreover, the minimal stretch technology of the synthetic upper ensures that sizing is similar to street shoe sizing, providing a comfortable fit for an extended period. With its excellent breathability and breathable material, the NIAD VCS guarantees better comfort and support on any climb.

Durable Construction

The NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe is built to last. It features a durable construction that can withstand intense climbing sessions without wearing out quickly. The synthetic upper provides exceptional toughness and resilience, making it suitable for rough outdoor terrain. The toe patch adds extra durability and protection when bouldering or gym climbing.

 You won’t have to worry about replacing this shoe anytime soon, as it is built to handle even the most demanding routes with ease. With its solid build quality, the NIAD VCS is an investment worth making for any rock climber looking for climbing shoes that are comfortable, reliable, and perform well.

Technical Specs

The Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe offers a range of impressive technical specifications that make it the go-to choice for many rock climbers. Below is a detailed breakdown of these specs:

ManufacturerFive Ten
Date First AvailableMay 15, 2021
DepartmentMens and Women’s
Shoe ProfileMedium-stiff, neutral last
RubberStealth C4 rubber
Best Suited ForSport climbing, bouldering, edging, crack climbing
Not Recommended ForOverhung terrain
Target ClimbersBeginners to experienced climbers with Egyptian foot shape and moderate downturn
Heel DesignRedesigned for better fit and improved tension
Breathability and FitBreathable, moisture-wicking

With these technical specs in mind, it’s easy to see why the Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe is a popular choice for both beginners and experienced climbers looking for a high-performance shoe that excels in various climbing styles and terrains.

Comfort And Fit

The Five Ten NIAD VCS boasts a comfortable fit with its medium-stiff profile and neutral last design, providing excellent support and stability for climbers during sport climbing or bouldering.

Support And Stability

The Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe is designed to provide exceptional support and stability, making it a great choice for intermediate climbers. This shoe has a medium-stiff profile with a neutral last that ensures comfort and fit for all foot shapes.

Whether you’re climbing outdoors or in the gym, this shoe offers consistent performance while maintaining its shape over time due to its durable construction. With an Egyptian foot shape and moderate downturn, this shoe provides better tension transfer to the heel than traditional designs do.

Offering superior edging ability on even small footholds thanks to its Stealth C4 rubber sole, you can be sure of your footing with every step.

Sizing Options

The Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe offers a range of sizing options to fit climbers with different foot shapes and sizes. Here are some important things to consider:

  1. The sizing for the NIAD VCS is similar to street shoe sizing, making it easy for climbers to find the right fit.
  2. Many climbers have reported that the shoe runs a little bit small, so it’s best to try on a few different sizes before purchasing.
  3. The shoe is designed for climbers with an Egyptian foot shape, meaning a longer big toe and tapered towards the smaller toes. These shoes are usually comfortable for people with narrow feet, however,  if you have a wide forefoot or high arches, this might not be the best fit for you.
  4. For those with Morton’s Toe (a second toe that is longer than the first one), going up half a size may provide more comfort and support.
  5. The synthetic upper has minimal stretch, so keep in mind that the shoes may not break in as much as leather shoes would over time.

Overall, finding the right size can greatly affect your comfort and performance while climbing. Be sure to try on multiple sizes and consider your foot shape when choosing the NIAD VCS or any other climbing shoe.

Performance Of The Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe

Five Ten NIAD VCS Review - Performance Of The Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe

The NIAD VCS rock climbing shoe is a jack-of-all-trades, providing excellent performance in both sport climbing and bouldering with its tension transfer to the heel, providing excellent edging and crack climbing capabilities.

Suitable For Sport Climbing And Bouldering

NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoes are a great choice for those who love sport climbing and bouldering. Its medium-stiff profile and neutral last make it comfortable to use, even for longer climbs.

The Stealth C4 rubber sole offers excellent friction on the rock surface, making it easy to grip and maintain balance. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, this shoe is suitable for your needs.

Great For Edging And Crack Climbing

The Five Ten  NIAD VCS has strong all-around performance with special expertise in edging, smearing and techniques. It also features a toe patch that provides extra protection while bouldering or gym climbing.

The Stealth C4 rubber sole offers excellent friction and precision, making it ideal for intermediate climbers who need stability and control on small holds.

Because of the broad and tall toe box and velcro buckles, the NIAD VCS may not be suitable for advanced crack climbing. Nevertheless, the NIAD VCS’s exceptional all-round performance makes it an excellent value for beginner or intermediate climbers looking to improve their skills without breaking the bank.

Tension Transfer To Heel

The Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe boasts improved tension transfer to the heel, thanks to its new design. This means that climbers can expect better support and stability while using their feet on small holds or edging on vertical terrain.

Climbers have praised this feature in reviews, with many noting that they feel more confident pushing themselves further because of it.

User Experience And Opinion

Five Ten NIAD VCS Review - User Experience And Opinion

Customers have provided positive reviews regarding the comfort and high-performance of the Five Ten NIAD VCS rock climbing shoe, with many praising its edging abilities and tension transfer to the heel. However, there are a few negative reviews as well with respect to sizing and durability issues experienced by some users

Positive Reviews For Comfort And Performance

The Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe has received positive reviews from rock climbers for its comfort and performance. Here are some of the reasons climbers have included in their reviews of this popular climbing shoe:

  • The medium – stiff profile and neutral last make it comfortable for long climbs, while still providing support and stability.
  • The synthetic upper is breathable and moisture – wicking, keeping your feet cool and dry even during intense climbs.
  • The Stealth C4 rubber sole provides excellent friction on a variety of surfaces, allowing you to confidently tackle any climb.
  • The new heel design offers improved tension transfer, providing a secure fit that reduces slippage.
  • The velcro straps make it quick and easy to put on or take off the shoes, while still ensuring a snug fit.

Overall, the Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe provides exceptional comfort and performance that can enhance your climbing experience. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, this shoe is definitely worth considering.

A Few Negative Reviews Regarding Sizing And Durability

Despite its excellent all-round performance, a few users have expressed concerns about the sizing and durability of the Five Ten NIAD VCS rock climbing shoe. Here’s what some climbers had to say:

  1. The sizing is a bit off – I had to go half a size up for a comfortable fit, but then the toe box was too roomy.
  2. I love these shoes, but they aren’t holding up as well as I’d hoped. The toe rand started peeling away after just a few months of use.
  3. When foot jamming in wider cracks, I experienced painful pressure points that made it difficult to climb for longer periods.”

Of course, no shoes will fit everyone’s feet so you need to try on several pairs to find one that fits properly.  If the shoe doesn’t fit comfortably, buy something else.  Also, although some climbers had durability issues, many more found these shoes to be very durable. Consequently, these comments do not affect our favorable review for the NIAD VCS shoes.

Comparison With Other Climbing Shoes

In this section, we will compare the Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoe with two other popular climbing shoes on the market–the La Sportiva Kataki and the Scarpa Vapor V.. The following table highlights the key features of these shoes  to help you make an informed decision.

Here’s a quick comparison of these four climbing shoes:

La Sportiva Tarantula
Scarpa Vapor V
Evolv Defy
Climbing Shoe
Climbing Shoe
La Sportiva Tarantula
Scarpa Vapor V
Evolv Defy
Best For
Best For
Sport Climbing & Bouldering
Beginners to intermediates, all-around climbing
Beginners to Intermediate Climbers
Tension Transfer From The Heel To The Forefoot, Stealth® C4 Sole, Microfiber Upper, Extended Toe Rubber, Hook-And-Loop Closure
Quick-pull lacing Harness, Durable FriXion® rubber compound, Lined Tongue, Aggressive Rubber heel
Dual Velcro straps, Mostly synthetic, Vibram XS Edge, Moderately downturned
Neutral Shape, Easy-To-Wear Velcro Straps, Trax SAS rubber, Flat Sole And Toe Box, Slipper-Like Feel
FeaturesFive Ten NIAD VCSLa Sportiva KatakiScarpa Vapor V
Upper MaterialSyntheticLeather / SyntheticMicrosuede
RubberStealth C4Vibram XS EdgeVibram XS Edge
Fastening SystemVelcroLacesVelcro
Best for Climbing TypeSport Climbing & BoulderingTechnical Face Climbing & Crack ClimbingVertical & Slightly Overhanging Climbing
Comfort & FitComfortable, designed for Egyptian foot shapeSnug, designed for narrow to medium width feetWide forefoot, suitable for wide feet
Price RangeModerateHigh-endModerate

In comparison to the La Sportiva Kataki and Scarpa Vapor V, the Five Ten NIAD VCS offers a good balance between performance and affordability. While it may not provide the same level of precision as some high-tech shoes, it is a suitable choice for climbers looking for an all-round shoe with great value for money.

Read our other rock climbing shoe reviews here.

Video Review


1. What is the sizing like for Five Ten NIAD VCS Rock Climbing Shoes?

The sizing for these shoes runs small compared to other brands, so it’s important to try them on before purchasing or order a half size up from your regular shoe size.

2. Are these shoes suitable for beginners in rock climbing?

Yes, the Five Ten NIAD VCS shoes are suitable for beginners as they offer a good balance of comfort and performance without being too aggressive like some advanced-level climbing shoes.

3. What type of rock climbing are these shoes best suited for?

These shoes are designed specifically for sport climbing at intermediate to advanced levels due to their moderately downturned shape and sticky rubber sole that provides great grip on steep terrain while also allowing flexibility for more technical moves.

4. How long do these climbing shoes last with regular use?

With regular use, the lifespan of these shoes can range from 6 months to over a year depending on factors such as frequency of use, terrain climbed and care taken when storing them.

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